Trebinje BIH

Trebinje is the most southernmost city in Bosnia & Hercegovina. It is:

– located on the Trebišnjica River
– boasts a historic walled Old Town
– know as the “the city of sun and platan trees”.

Freshwater trout from the crystal clear waters is a speciality & I can confirm delicious! Wine & honey production is prolific here. Zilavka is the local white wine, and Vranac is the local red. The vines grow in abundance in the area and can be seen for miles in the fertile Popovo Polje valley.  I highly recommend a visit to Vinska Galerija Vukoje (Podrumi Vukoje 1982) on Mirna 28.  Excellent wine tasting & food here.

Trebinje highlights: 

– Arslanagića most (most meaning bridge) was built in the 16th century. This Ottoman bridge used to connect the road between Dubrovnik and Istanbul. In the 1960s it was demolished brick by brick and moved 5km down the river to allow for a new dam. I was lucky enough to stay right opposite and the morning & evening light on the bridge was spectacular with the mountainous backdrop.

– Cathedral Temple of Holy Transfiguration of Our Lord took 20 years to build starting in 1888. Again, some stunning artwork in here.

– Jovan Dučić a Bosnian Serb poet, writer and diplomat was born here in 1871. His statue along with many other monuments sit in Gradski Park which is a peaceful place to wander.

– The Duži Monastery is Serbian Orthodox dedicated to the Intercession of the Theotokos. It was first mentioned in historical sources in 1694 and is located 10 km west of Trebinje. The last few km are along a dirt track, but persevere – plus you won’t see any coach parties up here. The tranquillity & views are well worth it along with the wonderful interior decor of the church.  A checkered history & much of it surrounding war. After World War I exiled Russian monks lived here and painted it with frescoes – three of these monks were killed by Yugoslav Partisans. Then deserted after WWII and into disrepair until it was used to house Yugoslav soldiers between 1954 and 1958. It then became nunnery in 1959 and gradually restored to its current glory.  The nuns didn’t speak any English, but were made very welcome they and opened up the church for us to marvel at.

– Take the 2km winding Crkvina lane from Trebinje and it leads to the Manastir Hercegovačka Gračanica, a Serbian Orthodox monastery. The hilltop also boasts 360-degree phenomenal views of the town.  The area comprises of a bell tower, gallery and bishop’s palace. However the most striking is the Presvete Bogorodice Church. The church is based on a symbolically 1321 Gračanica monastery in Kosovo which is considered sacred and historically significant to many Serbs.  Built in 2000, the church rehoused the bones of local Bosnian / Serb poet & hero, Jovan Dučić. The interior artwork is stunning. A must visit if in the area.

– You can see many old waterwheels along the Trebišnjica. These were historically used for irrigation are known locally as ‘dolaps’. They make good photo opportunities. You can walk along both sides of the river and due to the lovely light here you can get some amazing reflections in the water too.

An idyllic town to visit and very inexpensive. 3 bedroom apartment £18 per night/evening restaurant 2 mains, 2 desserts, beer, 1/2 litre house wine £22…

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